Thrifting has long been celebrated as the holy grail of unique fashion finds such as vintage band tees, old-school Levi’s, and quirky accessories seldom found on the high street. Beyond its appeal as a sustainable shopping option, thrifting has evolved into a lucrative investment hobby. Between 2021 to 2023, the global secondhand fashion market expanded significantly, jumping from $138 billion to $211 billion, with an expected rise to $351 billion by 2027. In 2023, online resales alone generated $20 billion in revenue. Thrifting has long been the fashion world’s affordable answer to sustainability, a way for shoppers to find unique items at affordable prices while also reducing waste. However, the landscape has shifted in recent years. The once-accessible secondhand market is starting to feel a little less inclusive, alienating the people who rely on it most. With the rise of reselling platforms and the trendiness of vintage fashion, thrifting is facing a shift that’s pricing out its original, budget-conscious audience.

However, as with any investment opportunity, there are downsides. Once a haven for students, low-income communities, and eco-conscious shoppers, thrift stores are now seeing a surge in popularity among wealthier buyers and resellers. One of the growing concerns is the “gentrification of thrift stores”. As more people turn to thrifting as a way to find high-value pieces or make extra money through resale, this can drive up demand and prices at thrift stores. This is often called “thrift store gentrification”—when wealthier shoppers begin purchasing large amounts of stock, leaving fewer affordable options for low-income communities who rely on thrift stores for essential clothing. The accessibility of secondhand clothing is being challenged as resellers flock to thrift stores in search of items they can flip for profit online. Platforms like Depop and Poshmark have made it easier than ever to mark up thrift store finds and resell them at inflated prices. What used to be a $5 thrifted jacket can now be found online for three or four times that price. While this can be a lucrative practice, it can reduce the availability of quality, affordable items for those in need, making thrift stores less of a resource for the communities they were originally meant to serve.

As thrifting gains popularity and prices rise, we find ourselves asking: Who gets left behind? While the sustainability and style appeal of thrifting has drawn in more consumers, it has also fostered a competitive marketplace where the best finds are being quickly scooped up by resellers and marked up beyond the reach of everyday shoppers. Historically, communities such as students, low-income families, and those in need of affordable professional attire have depended on thrift stores for essential clothing. Increasingly, however, these very stores are shifting their focus toward wealthier clientele. This has sparked concerns that the secondhand market is straying from its original purpose. What was once an affordable, eco-friendly alternative to fast fashion is now turning into a more exclusive, profit-driven space. If secondhand shopping becomes unaffordable, it could push those same shoppers back toward fast fashion—ironic, given that thrifting was initially about rejecting the wasteful practices of the fashion industry​. 

If thrift stores continue to cater primarily to resellers and trend-chasers, they risk cutting off the very communities that need them most. Ensuring that secondhand fashion remains accessible to everyone—not just those with the time and money to shop for profit—is crucial if the movement is to maintain its integrity. In the end, the question remains: Can thrifting balance its rise in popularity with its mission of affordability and sustainability? Or is it on the verge of becoming too exclusive for the people who need it most?