Cultures Not Costumes: Respecting Heritage in the Fashion Industry
By Ana Sunjka
In the fashion and beauty industries, navigating the fine line between cultural appreciation and appropriation requires a conscious and nuanced understanding. Cultural appreciation in these industries involves a respectful homage to the origins and significance of styles, practices, and symbols, ensuring that the representation is both informed and respectful. It demands a commitment to engaging with cultures in a manner that honors their traditions, complexities, and histories. This approach not only enriches the creative space but also educates and expands the audience's understanding of diverse cultural heritages.
Conversely, cultural appropriation in fashion and beauty often manifests when elements of a culture are borrowed superficially and without permission, stripped of their original meaning and context. Such actions can trivialize and exploit cultural symbols, perpetuating stereotypes and reinforcing systemic inequalities. It reflects a lack of genuine engagement with the culture being borrowed from and can lead to misrepresentation and commodification. The fashion and beauty industries must strive to differentiate between appropriation and appreciation by fostering dialogue, embracing authentic representation, and prioritizing the voices and perspectives of those whose cultures are being featured. This commitment to cultural sensitivity and respect is essential for creating a more inclusive, diverse, and equitable industry.
The fashion industry provides stark examples of "racial plagiarism," where designers copy racial and indigenous styles without permission, respect or proper attribution to the cultural and historical origin, for instance, the replication of traditional garments, accessories, hairstyles, or makeup. One example of such is The Victoria's Secret 2017 Fashion Show, where the collection was based on tribal indigenous-inspired costumes. The show faced criticism for presenting indigenous-inspired attire as mere fantasy costumes, devoid of their cultural context and significance. Similarly, in 2016, Marc Jacobs faced criticism for featuring predominantly white models adorned with dreadlocks in his Spring 2017 runway show. Critics argued that the designer's use of a hairstyle deeply rooted in African and African American cultures exemplified racial plagiarism. The adoption of dreadlocks by individuals outside of these cultural groups, particularly by white people, further complicates this issue. Dreadlocks hold significant cultural, spiritual, and historical importance within African and African American communities, serving as a symbol of resistance, pride, and identity. When white individuals wear dreadlocks, stripping the hairstyle of its rich heritage and reducing it to a fashion statement without acknowledging its origins and significance. This act of cultural borrowing is problematic as it overlooks the historical context and struggles associated with the hairstyle, thereby perpetuating a legacy of exploitation and disrespect towards the cultures from which these styles originate. More evident cases are seen at music festivals such as Coachella, where some non-Native individuals wear Native American headdresses. These headdresses, which are of profound spiritual and cultural significance to Native American communities, are reduced to mere fashion accessories, devoid of their rightful context. This practice not only disrespects the cultural importance of the headdresses but also contributes to the ongoing marginalization of Native American cultures by trivializing their traditions.
Similarly, another subset of cultural appropriation is beauty appropriation. It involves adopting beauty standards, practices, or aesthetics from another culture without acknowledgment or understanding of their cultural significance. This can range from the use of traditional makeup by individuals outside of that culture in a way that trivializes or fetishizes its significance, to the commercial exploitation of beauty rituals that have deep cultural roots. For instance, the Kardashians have been accused and criticized for the appropriation of traditionally African American beauty styles. Specific instances include their adoption of cornrows, their emphasis on fuller lips, and curvier body shapes, traits that African Americans have been discriminated against for, long before these features were popularized by celebrities. The Kardashians' influence on beauty standards in this way celebrates these attributes in non-black individuals, while often still contributing to the marginalization or penalization of black individuals for possessing the same traits. For African Americans, these features are not merely fashionable; they are integral to their racial and cultural identity. This situation epitomizes a pervasive double standard, where the dominant demographic benefits from the cultural elements of marginalized groups without facing the same repercussions, thus not only failing to dismantle but actively perpetuating systemic racism.
To navigate the fine line between cultural appreciation and appropriation, it's imperative for the fashion industry and designers to engage in thoughtful and informed discussions about the consequences of their creative choices. Achieving genuine cultural appreciation in fashion necessitates a concerted effort to deeply understand, respect, and interact with a culture, prioritizing dialogue with and insights from those who are part of it. The industry must continuously seek more conscious and respectful ways to engage with diverse cultures. This approach not only champions inclusivity but also cultivates a diverse fashion industry that values and amplifies marginalized voices, fostering a respectful celebration of global cultures. It emphasizes the essential roles of respect, learning, and dialogue within the fashion community, urging industry members to engage with cultural expressions thoughtfully and equitably.
The views expressed in this article are the author’s own, and may not reflect the opinions of N/A Magazine. Posted Friday 5th April 2024.
Edited by Charlotte Plaskwa